San Onofre (Old Mans)

"San Onofre's been better, dude. Two-foot mushballs rolling through on that rising tide, and it's filling in the shelf hard — you're losing definition by the hour. Crowd's thick as it gets and the banks aren't cooperating. This is a paddle-around-and-stay-loose kind of morning, maybe a beginner finds some forgiveness out back, but honest work it ain't. Offshores are glassy at least. Best window: 7am–9am — before the tide pushes it into total butter"